Vertical proportions of the figure

During my thorny stylistic journey, I've delved into many typing systems. It's not hard to guess that none of them has provided (or is capable of providing) comprehensive information or a quick solution. However, each one has added a piece to the final puzzle. The only thing left is to put it together.

One of these details was the assessment of the vertical proportions of the body, which will be discussed today.

Proponents of Kibbe's body types call this parameter "vertical/broken." In his theory (and subsequent test development), D. Kibbe relied on both the characteristics of individual body parts and a visual assessment of proportions. The scheme is quite simple: like attracts like. Short attracts short, tall attracts long. Short stature, shortened proportions, create a "broken" silhouette, i.e., composed of short lines, fragmented horizontally. Tall stature, elongated proportions, create a "vertical" silhouette, i.e., long, continuous lines. The shortness/length of proportions is determined partly by eye: whether you appear tall or short, as well as by the length of your limbs and the number of "heads" in your height.

It all sounds perfectly logical, but in reality, it wasn't as simple as I'd hoped. I noticed this by chance while analyzing one of our heroines, which prompted me to create a universal tool for assessing vertical proportions, regardless of image type, body type, or anything else. Having tested it with fresh eyes, unburdened by stylistic knowledge, I want to share it with you, dear participants.

What you need to do is draw rectangles in a contrasting color over a photograph of your figure. The width should be approximately equal to your shoulders (at the collarbone) and the length should reach your ankles. The left rectangle should be at the waist, and the middle rectangle should be at approximately hip level (called a "low waist"). Whether the top rectangle is light or dark doesn't matter. Your body type and color type, of course, also play a role. From there, it's just a matter of your eye. Let's look at the results of our test subjects and analyze:

What do our impressions tell us? The first lady in the left-hand "breakdown" is no longer a lady at all, but an awkward peasant woman. The shortened lines look stunted and awkward on her, even with the elongated line of the lower rectangle. If it were above the knee, the picture would be even sadder. The right-hand version, with its pronounced vertical line, looks most elegant, but the central version is also suitable, as its lines, while shorter, are still elongated. It's worth mentioning that, depending on the harmony of your body type, all three options may be available to you—it's important to evaluate the impression you create in a given composition and use this knowledge to your advantage. Moving on to the second young lady, we see a different situation. Don't you think the pronounced vertical lines make her seem unwieldy? It's as if she's being pulled toward the ground. The breakup at waist level, on the other hand, adds, if not height, then visual lightness and grace. The central variant can be used, but in those situations where you need to create the impression of a person who is “firmly standing on his own two feet,” responsible and serious – here we are no longer talking about beauty (which, as we know, is in harmony), but about specific goals, for the achievement of which you can and should use these compositional tricks)

Of course, in life it is not at all necessary to use such contrasting combinations or adhere to a dull monochrome - a tonal difference/similarity, visual fragmentation/integrity of the silhouette are enough.

The examples chosen for clarity are quite striking, but experience shows that often "owls are not what they seem" and a tall girl with a small head is adorned with a broken silhouette, while on a "Thumbelina", whose glamour is hard to doubt, a vertical one looks luxurious.

I think the time spent checking your vertical proportions using this simple method will be more than offset by the practical benefits, as vertical proportions determine:

• lengths of clothing items

• hair length

• the degree of acceptable contrast of accessories, their shape and location

• degree of contrast between hosiery and footwear

• composition of prints

• composition of the ensemble as a whole

I hope you found my perspective on style helpful!

Peace between the outer and inner to each and everyone!

Thank you for your trust, and until next time!