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Gray hair. To dye or not to dye?

  • Writer: Sophia Kathermes
    Sophia Kathermes
  • Sep 9
  • 8 min read

Greetings, friends!


Being a happy ( or in my case rather “lucky” ) owner of a hereditary silver crown from a young age, I often look with envy and admiration at the increasing number of people who refuse to dye their natural gray hair and, of course, often ( about once every 2 weeks ) think about this topic.


Who suits gray hair?

On the one hand, it is absolutely convenient. In terms of maintaining a healthy appearance, pure gray hair, even glassy, does not present a greater problem than gray hair under permanent dye, but the mentioned procedures once every 2 weeks tire me, as an adherent of minimal labor costs regarding appearance.


On the other hand, resisting the trend for eternal youth is also not easy. Especially if gray hair in your case somewhat forces events and does not beautify at all.


Could it be otherwise? What does it depend on? We'll talk about this today, approaching it from all the stylistic sides known to me.


I will immediately stipulate that the article will not carry any ethical load. Comfort, moral and aesthetic - is a personal matter for everyone.


It is most convenient to reject the semantic load and consider gray hair as a simple gray color . And, of course, in this case, the first reference point in the search for harmony becomes...


Color type


In the system of 12 color types, we rely on the balance of characteristics: warmth/cold, brightness/softness, darkness/lightness.


In the context of gray hair, the primary factor will be temperature .


Who suits gray hair?

In terms of temperature, gray can be neutral, cool, or warm, but any gray is perceived as cool to some degree.


The lower its temperature, the "cleaner" and brighter it looks.


Therefore, the highest chance to beautifully fit gray hair into the image, of course, is with the Summer and Winter families. Brighter - for Winters, softer - for Summers.


Who suits gray hair?
The more "icy" the impression your palette makes, the more naturally gray hair can be incorporated into the image.

Lightness/darkness depend on the amount of gray hair, its type and natural tone. In this regard, it is most difficult for Dark color types - radical lightening ( by 3 or more steps ), natural or artificial, creates dissonance with their natural tonality.


The percentage of gray hair, its location and the base tone of the hair also affect the contrast index: high contrast ( dark tone + large light strands ) is more likely to suit Bright and Cold, uniform color - Light and Bright, non-uniform color ("salt and pepper") - Soft or Dark.


Who suits gray hair?

I think it wouldn't hurt to also make a footnote about natural hair tone:


  • Ash, light brown hair transitions more easily to gray hair - softly and organically. You can do without coloring, especially for summer and soft autumn color types;


  • Warm golden-red hair often conflicts with cool gray hair, so it requires warm toning or coloring, especially for spring and warm autumn color types;


  • Black and rich brown hair give a dramatic effect when gray hair appears. For a complete look, they often require stylistic alignment through cutting, styling or toning.


It is also worth mentioning that harmony when changing hair color can be maintained by adjusting the palette of your wardrobe and/or makeup.


I have briefly collected all the conclusions in a table:

Color type

Gray hair

Recommendations

Makeup

Bright summer

Suitable for natural gray hair - soft ash, silver

You can add smoky, lavender, and soft blue shades to your wardrobe.

Pinkish blush, cool pink or raspberry sheen

Cold summer

Platinum, ash-gray gray hair is harmonious

Suitable colors are steel, denim, grape, gray-lilac

Cool shades of shadows, gray-plum range

Mild summer

It is better to soften it slightly with toning, for example - steel with a slight warmth. "Sewing" gray hair will do

The best colors are dusty: pinkish gray, sage, burgundy gray

Soft, smoky, with a cool base

Cold winter

Pure silver, contrasting gray hair highlights the contrast

Colors: black, white, sapphire, emerald

Scarlet lips, graphic eyeliner

Bright winter

Cold, shiny, contrasting with bright eyes

Suitable colors are rich: ruby, royal blue, fuchsia

Clear eyebrows, fresh cool tones

Dark winter

Cool, can maintain a dark tone with gray strands, “salt and pepper”

Bordeaux, black coffee, and charcoal are suitable.

Expressive: emphasis on eyes or lips

Bright spring

Unnatural without toning, warm toning would be better: beige, pearl

Colors: apricot, vanilla, mint.

Light, radiant, with a peachy blush

Warm spring

Cold gray hair conflicts with the natural palette, you can tint it in light honey, sandy shades

Wardrobe: caramel, coral, warm turquoise

Warm Peach, Light Bronze

Bright spring

Cold gray hair can "extinguish" the brightness, similarly - warm toning is needed

Best colors: tangerine, mint, azure

Clear but not dark shades

Warm autumn

Requires toning or coloring. Golden-chestnut, copper tones are preferred.

Ochre, terracotta, olive - familiar autumn colors

Brick, bronze, caramel

Soft autumn

You can leave it "smoky" with a warm nuance, for example, ash-caramel. "Sewing" gray hair will do

Colors: sage, pink clay, dusty peach.

Natural, warm, neutral

Dark Autumn

Possible "salt and pepper" + tinting: dark chocolate, mocha

Wardrobe: burgundy, bronze, emerald

Deep, warm and rich shades

While color plays a leading role in this matter, other style factors can influence the overall picture, enhancing the impression or requiring more subtle work on incorporating gray hair into the image.

Let's talk about composition:



So, we have determined that gray hair as a hair color has a cold/cool temperature ( without any toning ), and in addition, due to its distribution, density and contrast, it can, in fact, influence the composition: give the image a graphic look or soften it, make it more watercolor-like, create a monolith, add large details or active variegation.


Who suits gray hair?

The main 9 lines also have a figurative temperature - it is embedded in the distant ( cold ) or inviting ( warm ) impression they produce. They are also divided into more graphic ( clear ) and softer ( landscape ). More laconic and detailed. Expressive and delicate.


In this regard, I do not see any obstacles to correlation:

Line

Gray hair

Recommendations

Makeup

Contrasting, cold, platinum or steel, uniform or in large strands

Active shapes, bold or strict haircuts, graphics

Bright accent: dark lips, arrows, sharp contour

Muted, smoky, with soft toning - pearl or cream

Uneven color and streamlined shapes to maintain the watercolor effect

Nude, soft contour, light highlight

Silver, with a soft shine, uniform or with a slight gradient, large strands are possible

Neat styling with expressive waves, elegant silhouettes

Satin leather, vintage lips, arrows, clear eyebrows

Only with tinting. Warm, caramel or smoky beige. Soft "sewing" may be suitable

It's important to keep the look soft and full with styling and low contrast color.

Natural shades, warm blush, soft shadows

Pearl, smoky, silvery lavender

Maintains smooth lines and a refined shape. Effective in long haircuts

Cool color scheme, emphasis on eyes, smooth tone

Steel, graphite, large strands or uniform color

Strict forms, high contrast

Contrast: monochrome shadows, matte textures

Clean, neutral-cold, homogeneous

Structured voluminous haircuts, minimalism, clear but not sharp silhouette

Moderate, balanced makeup in basic shades, even tone

Homogeneous, shiny, clean

Dynamic styling, structured volume, expressive makeup

Active blush, expressive eyebrows, radiant skin, bright eyelashes

Light, pearl, soft. A motley "stitching" might be suitable

Requires subtlety in haircut and makeup to maintain delicacy

Light, watercolor makeup, translucent textures

The conclusion from all of the above is this: in general, a technique for using gray hair can be selected for any linearity. The only exception is the Soft form, devoid of any graphic quality and coolness - a pure gray range is unlikely to suit it, and the best option would be to disguise it as a "blond".


Color - yes, composition - yes. It remains to discuss imagery as a product of the combination of the first and second.


Character types and gray hair


Again, we will rely on temperature , contrast and detail ( including scale ).


Let's go through the stylistic components in brief:



  • High contrast - for classics, drama and naive. Low - for romanticism and naturalism;


  • More details - naive, romantic and dramatic. Less - classic and natural;


  • The naive-romantic component, due to its scale, can prevent a sufficiently mature impression for a harmonious union with gray hair. In this regard, working with "naives" requires the most painstaking work;


  • The dramatic component, on the contrary, gives the image expressiveness and impressiveness, easily withstanding such a bright accent as gray hair.


Who suits gray hair?

It remains to try to put all the input data in your head and arrange it into columns:


Type

Gray hair

Recommendations

Makeup

Contrasting, silver, whole or in large clear strands

With a well-groomed texture and a strict, noble style, gray hair enhances status and solidity. Smooth styling and graphic shapes will do

Clear eyebrows, emphasis on lips, cool tones

"Smoky" shades, silver with a purple undertone. Uniform color or large strands

Gray hair enhances mysticism and drama. Velvet, gray-plum range, watercolor transitions, witchcraft makeup

Lavender eyeshadow, smoky eyeliner, pearl shine

Natural, uneven, textured. Large strands or "salt and pepper"

The image should be "live", textured. Natural, careless gray hair in the style of boho or grunge, natural waves, ash-smoky shades, layered clothing are ideal

Warm earthy tones, texture, density, accent brows

Cold, platinum, distinctly artificial. Uniform or graphic strands/zones

In combination with black, leather, neon, clear eyebrows and makeup. Gray hair as an element of provocation. Graphic haircuts, asymmetry

Black eyeliner, bright lips, contrast

Only uniform with tinting in pastel colors: pearl pink, pearl

Structure and conciseness, high contrast, shine, clean lines

Pink blush, shine, long eyelashes

Light shades only with toning - warm, peach-sand. On dark hair, the effect of low-contrast highlighting, "burnout" is available

"Live" colors in clothes and makeup, accents in the form of bright accessories

Glowing skin, peachy blush, fluffy brows, lip tint

Very light pearl, soft. Uniform or in strands framing the face

Pastel, light shapes, weightless fabrics, blush, silver-pink range

Light tone, watercolor blush, eyebrows without sharpness, "kissed" lips

Any gray hair with sufficient grooming

Looks perfect with fine features and verified elegance. Aristocratic images, laconicism, cold pastel

Clear skin, cool highlighter, delicate palette

Natural, wheat-gray, warm ash, low-contrast "salt and pepper"

Natural palette, uneven tones, natural fabrics and textures, soft styling, linen and wool clothing

Warm, natural makeup, soft contouring

Better with tinting: chestnut-ash, caramel-gray

Soft transitions, gradients, natural effect, low contrast. Flowing fabrics, soft volume, chocolate-berry accents

Plum shadows, wet effect, lip gloss


To summarize:


  • Gray hair, as part of a personal style, is most harmoniously combined with the "coldest" Image types: Influential , Mysterious and Refined ;


  • The "warmest" type, the Cheerful, should avoid it altogether, resorting to toning to imitate blond or permanent coloring;


  • Less warm Doll and Tender due to the gamine/ingénue impression are also recommended to play it up through associations with the blonde;


  • It is easier for a daring person to fit it into his image in the role of a “bright element” ( as well as any other color );


  • Naturals - Wild , Local and Sensual are more suited to uneven strands, gray-brown tones, warm toning and "sewing". Gray color is possible with a cold or extremely soft color type.



That's all from me, dear fellow travelers. I hope this article will be useful for you ♥


To everyone and everyone - peace between the external and the internal!


Thank you for your trust and see you soon!



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